Mads and I made our way back from Cusco to Izcuchaca today, catching another 2 soles ride in the hatchback space of a pretty beat-up Toyota. If you want to ride in an actual seat, it’ll cost you an extra sol.

But apparently we aren’t the only ones who have figured this out. After hopping in, a classically dressed old Peruvian lady came around to the trunk-side and asked me to skooch. So the three of us rode backward together, watching through the Toyota’s greasy glass as Cusco seeped into the mountains.

Weekends are big feria days. We managed to hit up the market in Cusco on Saturday and today, and we also checked out the one in Izcuchaca after we were dropped off. Both of us came out with lovely sombreros and change purses. And, I

was fortunate enough to choose a vendor in Cusco who (somewhat) understood my broken Spanish. When she asked which hat I wanted to try, I told her “la noche” and then sort of grimaced as I stumbled over some French-panol in my head.

Sporting our new sombreros, Mads and I took another carro back to Almeria. Walking up the dirt road already feels like walking home. Spending the night in Cusco made us both miss our quiet pueblita, so it feels good to be back.

Plus, how could you not want to be greeted by these guys?